Frequently Asked Questions

What are your thoughts on buying second hand parts? I sell a lot of used parts and have done so for over 20 years. If you are considering buying a used part from me please remember that it will be at least 28 years old and maybe 45 years. It wont be perfect, it won't be any good on your show car (without overhauling), its unlikely to last as long as a new one, or be as good, it probably won't even be clean. It may help you out if a new part is not available or very expensive.

Cosmetic parts & "opinions" . By cosmetic I mean parts where the look is important, eg bumpers, trim, brightwork. I daily get asked on the phone such things as "How much for a reasonable XXX (bumper, wheel, etc). The problem here is that one customer's idea of reasonable or useable is very different from another's. I have spent long enough selling used Triumph spares to learn that different people view the same part at the same price in different ways.

Bob will say "You've got a nerve asking £50 for that piece of rubbish
Pete will say "Ok I'll have a think on that, unless you'll take £40 for cash - after all it is a bit rough round the edges - in which case I'll have it now"

So I don't know if you are Bob, Pete, or Tim. And often, neither do you! And sometimes Bob turns into Tim when hes been looking for a part for a while. That's why I cant give opinions as to whether something is great, average or rubbish. All I can say is that in my experience 30 year old parts are never "as new". Pretty much the only parts which are as new are those which are indeed new and (as experienced restorers will know) even new parts are often not as good as you expected them to be and require fettling or more. If you have a concours car you don't really want to be fitting used parts; if you're maintaining a daily driver (especially on a budget), or you're handy and, like many of us in this hobby, enjoy turning sow's ears into silk purses then perhaps you do.

Consequently I no longer mail order cosmetically important items out, but will only sell when the customer has seen it. I used to, years ago, but it caused too much trouble with customers not getting what they expected (and me picking the postage up both ways when they want to return it) that now I have a golden rule: No sale on used cosmetically-important items without being seen first and approved by the customer (except to known customers and other traders). I'm sorry if you live in Scotland or Sweden and can't make the trip but that's how it is. Of course I lose sales by this - but I've learnt the hard way that I can't second guess customer's expectations of 40 year old parts, so I'd rather sell fewer things to happier customers.

After I have explained this rule, the next question is sometimes well can you take a photo? Not really as 1) you usually can't see much from a photo. 2) There is usually a range of items you want in a range of conditions and sometimes a range of prices - 5 photos of 5 bumpers at 5 prices doesn't help - I know, I've tried. 3) As we have a constant turnover this is usually not possible anyway.

Not all used parts are for sale. Parts not for sale generally fall into 5 categories:

1) Parts which are really fit-once-only so by the time we have removed them and you have attempted to re-install them there won't be much left of them. Parts in this category include hoods and carpets (a good trimmer will usually adapt and cut to suit these items to suit the individual car - after all Triumphs are individuals (and were never built by computer controlled robots on the production line so were all a bit different - never mind the addition of 30+ years of added individuality) and since not every new part fits first time and looks perfect without a bit of tweaking/adapting when fitting to the individual car - it can't usually be re-adapted to fit a different one.

2) Parts which are just not worth having used because they are not going to work properly (eg used brake discs aren't worth having as they need to be fitted in pairs and wont mesh with your pads)

3) Parts which are too tempermental to be sold used - eg overdrive units - these are problematic enough even when freshly overhauled.

4) Parts which take too long to remove from the donor car relative to their value ie there is no point in me selling a £5 item second hand when the new one costs £10 and it is going to take me an hour to remove it from the car when I would otherwise have been repairing a customer's car - remember that unlike new parts there is always a direct labour cost involved in used parts. I would have to charge more for the used part to take into account the mechanic's time in removal than the cost of new part. No, sorry, you cant come down and remove it yourself - Health and Safety put paid to that a long time ago.

5) Parts which we keep for ourselves. Sometimes people get upset and state things like: "You must have one of those, you dismantle the cars - sell it to me now". Unfortunately some things are just not for sale. This is because I do a lot of restoration work and I do keep rare parts that are not available new for this reason - it is awkward, as specialists, to tell a customer that we can't quite finish his job satisfactorily yet because we are waiting for an XXX and we don't know when one will come in. So I avoid this by saving these parts for restoration customers.

Timescale: A lot of my parts are shelved so there is not usually an issue picking and packing them. However a lot of units are left on the cars which are in a roofless yard, therefore it can sometimes take some time to remove your part. As I speak its hardly stopped raining for 3 days so I haven't even ventured into the yard.

Even with weather permitting it can be a while. For example I don't want to remove the special bolts holding the gearbox to the bellhousing if the car in question is at the back of the yard and 10 immobile cars would have to be forklifted around to get at it. But if you're not in a hurry then I will get these next time the yard is moved around. So if you are in a hurry please be advised that its sometimes not possible to supply used parts on demand - please ask when ordering.

I often get advised that it would be better if the parts were shelved - the answer to this is that a lot of them are but some are not, apart from being limited in space and time, that is because: 1) its easier to test some items, eg a wiper motor, before sale on the car than off it. (yes I know I could test them all and then remove them, but its amazing how they can cease functioning while sitting on the shelf - they really do! - I guess the internal contacts get corroded up etc) and 2) I don't know in advance exactly what someone is going to order - eg I can sell a heater matrix, a heater matrix and the motor or the matrix, motor, and valve all together at a discounted price. As you will appreciate there's no point in me splitting the items down, shelving them, for someone to want the lot - especially when they want it assembled along with the screws that hold it together that I had to drill out to get it apart.

Prices of used parts: The price of used parts is not set in stone. It fluctuates. The price you were quoted on a used part 3 months ago is not necessarily today's price. This is due to supply and demand, and I have a finite supply of used parts - I can't order more. EG lets say I have 2 new tank senders left - they are obsolete and no one is making them anymore, when they are sold the used ones will increase in value and therefore price. Of course if somone starts re-manufacturing them (or I manage to buy some NOS units somewhere) then the price will go down again. Another example: I tend to collect convertible hardtops over the summer - come July I will have a pile of them taking up space and getting in everyones way - they will be cheap. Come Christmas when there is only one left I will tend to want more for it. So if you were quoted a price a while ago, ring or email before you visit to make sure firstly that we still have one, and secondly the price.

Mechanical Parts: I test mechanical parts as far as I am able. This often means I bench test them. This is a good indication but its not infallible. Lets take our wiper motor again for example: I can wire it up and watch the spindle move, but this doesn't always mean that it still has enough life to turn the rack and the wipers over a dry screen.
Even when they work fine they're still not a new part eg a starter motor will always exhibit some wear to the toothed pinion as it starts wearing from the moment it contacts the ring-gear in its first life.
But the good news is most mechanical parts are warranted for 28 days. If it doesn't work or it dies within 28 days then return for a refund.
Not all parts are warranted eg all hydraulic units (brake calipers, cylinders etc) are sold as suitable for reconditioning as I don't have the test equipment to test these. Assume they require rebuilding, if they work then its a bonus.
Radiators are not warranted as I don't have pressure test facilities. Of course they're given a look over and wont be sold with any glaring holes, but just because they look OK doesn't always mean they will hold pressure. So again these are sold for reconditioning.

Mileage on major units: Sometimes on larger mechanical parts I get asked what mileage the car it was, or will be, taken from is. I don't know. Its usually not possible to know. With our cars, at the age they are, the speedo reading is usually not an accurate guide as to the mileage of the overall vehicle; never mind the mileage of individual components. Speedos often break and get changed either for a new one or a 2nd hand one (with a random reading) and have often been round the clock (which means back to zero on our cars). Plus of course the units themselves get changed during the life of the car. For example my own Spitfire reads 26000 miles and looks like a really low mileage car, but its been round the clock twice and had 3 engines, 5 gearboxes and 2 diffs - I only know this because I've owned it 20 years and fitted them myself - I have no idea what it had before my ownership.

I've heard used parts can fit or work better than new parts? Yes sometimes thats true - some reproduction parts can leave more than a little to be desired. But its not always the case - some repro parts are better than the originals and today's repros generally are better than what was available 10 years ago. But please remember when you are buying a used part you are not necessarily buying a used original one. For example last week I had a customer who wanted a used diff because he was going to build it himself up to a very high standard, better than the reconditioned ones generally available, and had been advised to start with a used original one. Luckily he mentioned this before I sent him one. Diffs (although often longer lasting than other constituents of the car) are unlikely to be the original one fitted at the factory - they don't last that long. Every car that comes in here is likely to have had many components changed, sometimes several times, over the years. The fact that it is a used part doesn't mean its an original part.

Please don't let all this put you off buying used parts - they're usually cheaper, occasionally better, always greener - I just want you to be armed with this info before you do.

I have emailed/phoned you for a used part I want and you haven't got it. Can I add myself to a wanted list? Yes here

New & Reconditioned Parts: All new and reconditioned items are guaranteed for 12 months from date of purchase. Should an item fail within this period, it will be at our discretion to repair or replace the item. This guarantee expressly excludes any consequential loss or loss of profit, labour charges incurred, or damage caused by misuse, neglect, incorrect fitting (except by ourselves), accident and abnormal wear and tear, racing, rallying, or any other form of competition. Under no circumstances will any return delivery charges (if incurred) be refunded, neither will the amount of any refund exceed the invoiced value of the good(s). In the rare event that a part does prove faulty you will need to supply your original invoice and the part must be returned to us so that we can confirm the fault. Please note that any warranty is non-transferable. If a new part is ordered in error then it may be returned within 14 days of receipt, however we reserve the right to charge a handling fee of 15%. Acceptance of goods is deemed as acceptance of these conditions. These warranties are in addition to, and do not detract from, your statutory rights as a consumer.

Used Parts - Mechanical: All used mechanical parts such as engines, gearboxes, and differentials are guaranteed for 28 days from date of purchase. If you are unhappy for any reason with a used mechanical part which you have bought unseen then return to us within 28 days for a refund (in other words if you are not delighted with the used mechanical part then return it to us - no questions asked - for a refund of the cost). We will not refund any delivery costs, neither will we refund any used part after 28 days. Used parts are theoretically sold as suitable for reconditioning or overhauling, although they may well be suitable for immediate use we would not advise this in the case of safety orientated components such as brake-related parts.

Used Parts - Non Mechanical: All used non mechanical parts are sold with no claim being made to their cosmetic condition. - please see here. We would much prefer you to make a trip to our premises where we can normally show you a selection of parts for you to make your choice, If however this is not possible then we will send out a part, and will give you an honest description of it by telephone (unfortunately we are unable to give detailed descriptions by email). If you are unhappy with the part then it must be returned to us within 14 days of receipt with a copy of the invoice and a covering note. We will issue a refund for the full cost of the part (we will not levy a handling or restocking charge) but we are unable to refund any delivery costs. When considering buying used trim parts please bear in mind that trim parts are delicate and in our experience are never in mint condition. Some used trim parts eg carpets, hoods are rarely of saleable quality at all and normally go straight in the bin so we don't keep stocks of these.

Used Parts - Hydraulic: All used hydraulic items are sold without guarantee - They are sold as suitable for reconditioning. We are absolutely unable to guarantee hydraulic items (master & slave cylinders, calipers, servos, power steering pumps etc) as we are unable to test them. The only reason we will accept a return on a hydraulic item is if we have supplied an incorrect part.

What if the parts I've ordered arrive damaged or don't arrive at all? Loss or damage in transit: When you sign for a parcel please inspect it carefully. If you have any reason to suspect it has suffered in transit mark the delivery or acceptance note "damaged in transit" before signing. If your parcel does not arrive at all we have to establish our claim with the carriers concerned before we can send a replacement consignment. This can sometimes take a little while, and if your part is needed urgently a second order may be placed. One of your orders will be refunded as soon as the carriers clear our claim.

What is an "Exchange Surcharge"? Where reconditioned parts are sold on an exchange basis an "exchange surcharge" is applied – a deposit that is refunded to you when your old unit is received by us. This system operates to allow the continued use of the vehicle while replacing parts and is aimed at reducing vehicle "downtime" to a minimum. Should an exchange unit supplied by you not be fit for reconditioning then you will not receive the deposit surcharge back, and the part returned to you. The main problems encountered are holes in engine blocks, cracks in cylinder heads, seized bleed nipples in calipers, or the wrong specification item (eg GT6 differential instead of Spitfire unit). Please drain return units of oil and water. If you are unable to supply us with an exchange unit then please inform us at the time of ordering, as in come circumstances we may be able to cancel or reduce the exchange surcharge applied. Sometimes in the event of rare items we are not able to supply an exchange unit, in which case your own part will have to be rebuilt, if serviceable. To summarise: we want your old unit back so as we can rebuild it for the next guy.

Where do you get all your Triumphs for dismantling from? (Can I buy one for restoration? Seems a shame to me to strip what sometimes seem to be rebuildable cars?) As approved & licensed vehicle dismantlers we have contracts with classic car insurance firms and their handling agents across the country, so if your vehicle is an accident write-off (category A & B) it may well come to ourselves. Unfortunately we are unable to sell on these vehicles complete as part of our contract of purchase of total loss vehicles (as well as legal requirements issued by DVLA) prohibits this - therefore they have to be dismantled. Normally we do have restoration projects or cars needing work for sale and these are detailed here.

I need a service, new engine, MoT etc….can I just turn up or do I need to book? If possible we do very much prefer people to book in advance, as it enables us to be sure we have in stock the parts which may be required to minimise downtime. Furthermore, priority will be given to customers who have a pre-scheduled appointment. However if it is an emergency, give us a ring and we'll do our best.

I need to see you to buy some parts…can I just turn up or do I need to book an appointment? Just turn up, we have a retail shop which is open from 8:30 to 5:30 Monday to Friday, and 9:30 to 1:00 on some saturdays we often attend car shows and race meetings so please ring first if you plan to visit on Saturday. If you are travelling some distance and require a rare or obscure part then please ring first to check it is in stock.

Can you send me a parts catalogue? What, no catalogue? We constantly get requests for catalogues for specific cars for a general parts catalogue. The problem is that there is no way to create a catalogue with our entire inventory, and even if there were, it would NEVER be up to date. Many of our competitors print catalogues that go out of date constantly, and offer prices and parts that are not available (and they know it - it gets you to call...) No glossy catalogues, no customer cards or loyalty schemes – just the very best prices, further info see here

I need to see you because I think there might be something wrong with my car, and I'd like you to have a look, tell me what's wrong and how much it will cost to put right…can I just turn up or do I need to book an appointment? Just turn up if all you need is an estimate - estimates are free.

Do you operate a recovery service? Yes, we run a purpose built truck, as we believe towing vehicles is not conducive to their good health. For shortish journeys we charge £65.00 plus £2.00 per mile. For longer journeys please ring for a quote.

I'm thinking about using your workshop services but I'm a long way away? We cannot decide for you if it is "worth" coming to us in your individual case, but we do have customers from all over Britain who do perceive it to be worth making a long trip. Indeed we have several European customers whose cars we look after.

I'm thinking about using your workshop services but I'm a long way away and my car needs recovering? If your Triumph needs some fairly substantial work then you may well find that we are still your best option…please give us a ring for a recovery quote, (you may be pleasantly surprised at the price).

I'm thinking about using your accident repair facilities but I'm a long way away and my car needs recovering, will my insurance firm pay for this? In every case we have dealt with so far the answer has been yes. This is because the insurance firms are well aware that they will normally end up paying a lower overall price (including recovery) by using a specialist with access to specialist tools, knowledge, and competitively-priced parts than by using an ordinary garage.

I've had an accident; will you deal with the insurance people and the rest of it? Yes, we are well acquainted with the procedure and all we need are your name, address and insurance details (but do be sure to inform your insurance firm of your accident at your earliest convenience). We also have many years' experience of dealing with loss-adjusters!

Can I park easily near you? Yes, you may normally park in our yard and there are no yellow lines outside our premises and your vehicle is covered by our security cameras.

Can I stay and wait while you work on my car? Yes, you are extremely welcome, however we do operate by appointment so if you turn up unexpectedly we will welcome you with open arms but there is likely to be a delay before we can start work.

While you are working on my Triumph can I go shopping? Yes, we are a short walk from Woolwich town center where you can indulge in a little shopping or make use of the library, leisure center and suchlike. Local pubs & cafes are 3 minutes away. Alternatively we are a stone's throw from Plumstead station which has a fast regular service to central London.

My car is going to need a bit of work for the MoT, but I don't want to spend too much money just now, can you do me any "favours" (wink)? No, sorry, we can't do that, and in any event some aspects of the MoT are computer controlled these days and we cant override the computer. However we often find that MoT testers who are not used to dealing with classic cars on a regular basis fail them on items which don't even require testing, eg failing a Herald on rusty sills (the sills aren't structural on Heralds, and thus pose no safety hazard) or performing emission tests on exempt cars (vehicles registered before 1974 don't require an emission test) etc. If you feel that a tester is being unduly harsh on your vehicle it may be worth reminding him of the Ministry guidelines relating to classics, which roughly state that "when testing a vehicle of substancial age, do not apply standards higher than those which applied when the vehicle was new". For more information about the MOT test please see here

I'm thinking about buying a Triumph and was wondering what are the advantages of buying from a specialist….I've heard it can be cheaper to buy privately? We would tend to think that this is not always correct in the Triumph market. Firstly Triumphs are usually owned as a pleasure-giving hobby rather than being viewed (as everyday cars are) as a tool to get from A to B, and consequently many owners value their car while wearing their rose-tinted spectacles, and this is reflected in their asking prices. Secondly most owners are not in a desperate hurry to sell, and they are not that bothered if they sell the car this month, next month, or even next year. Consequently they tend to hold out for the best possible price. Indeed we often see the same car being advertised for sale by the same person at an overinflated price several times a year. This is because they don't especially want to sell the car, unless someone is prepared to pay the overinflated price. By way of contrast, as a business once we have a car ready to sell then we need to do so fairly quickly as it is taking up our valuable workshop space and consequently we price it accordingly. In fact we would rather make a little bit of money on each fast selling car than hold out for top price on just one, as normally a new owner will bring the car back to us for servicing and parts.

Furthermore we acquire cars from sources which are not available to private buyers, because for whatever reason the vendors have not been pre-disposed to selling their cars privately. We also acquire cars from other sources that are available to us through years of being in the trade, such as from a solicitors dealing with his deceased client's wills, one of whose assets was his classic car collection needing to be disposed of, from council bailiffs who had confiscated a vehicle in lieu of debt, etc

What are my rights when buying from a registered dealer (such as yourselves) as opposed to buying privately? Please click here

Do you mind if I bring a friend to inspect one of your sales cars, or have it inspected by the AA. No of course not, we welcome it. We are happy to provide them with inspection lamps, jacks, coffee etc.

I have found a Triumph (not one of yours) I think might be a good buy, do you do inspections? Yes we certainly do. We provide a full written report on the vehicle click here to see some examples. Should you not be mechanically minded or have comprehensive Triumph knowledge this may well reveal problems, or other aspects of the vehicle of which you were not aware, which may influence your buying decision, as well as alert you to any problems which may need attention fairly quickly or any problems on the horizon. We cannot decide if a particular car is "right" for you, but we can help you make a more informed decision by arming you with all the relevant information.

How much are your inspections? This depends on the particular model; a Stag for example is much more sophisticated than a Spitfire and therefore takes us longer to glean the complete picture. As an example an inspection performed on a Herald at our workshops is priced at £85.00 ex VAT. We are of course happy to perform the inspection at any location and the price will be determined by the traveling distance involved. Click here for an inspection example

Do the AA/RAC do inspections? Yes they certainly do. In our experience they normally provide a comprehensive and fair report (although perhaps not always as timely as might be desired). However as dedicated Triumph specialists our Triumph knowledge is on a par with, and may well exceed, that of an AA patrol man. Furthermore our pricing for inspections is extremely competitive and we would advise you to compare quotes.

What engine & gearbox oil do you recommend? We recommend and use Castrol products. Namely Castrol Classic XL20w/50 for the engine (this is particularly formulated for classic engines – modern hybrids & "supermarket" lubricants are not) & Castrol EP90 for the gearbox & differential. Regular oil changes will prolong component life. Be sure to use a quality oil filter with a non-return valve.

What lubricant do you recommend for the trunnions – I’ve heard differing views and I’m confused? We recommend and use Penrite Semi-Fluid grease. The original Triumph handbook just recommended standard grease, however we find that although standard grease does an adequate job at lubricating it tends to wear the trunnions out quickly. This is because due to their brass/copper construction they are prone to tiny particles chipping off, in grease these particles remain in solution and with suspension movement tend to exasperate wear in a vicious circle, as grease is too viscose to allow the particles to sink to the base of the trunnion where they are relatively harmless. Alternatively, the use of gearbox oil does allow the particles to sink, but may not provide adequate lubrication. We find the Penrite product (which Penrite claim is designed for this job) a happy compromise.

Why do my trunnions keep wearing out so quickly? Bear in mind that as trunnions are constructed from copper/brass compounds (rather than steel) they will not last indefinitely. Secondly the very tight turning circle on Triumphs provides high lateral forces which places great stress on the trunnions. If you detect any play at all then rebush the trunnion – a bush kit is considerably cheaper than a new trunnion, which is what will be required if they are left unbushed. Also see trunnion lubrication.

Your service prices are for labour, they don't include parts, why not? This is because most cars don't need every service part replaced on every service - some parts only need a check or adjustment, and replacement only if worn. It is a waste of time and money to replace parts unnecessarily, consequently if your car is serviced regularly it will need less parts than if servicing is performed infrequently.

What are the advantages of Kevlar hoses? The main advantages of Kevlar reinforced hoses are higher strength. lower heat transfer, longer life, better wear & chafe resistance, and better tear resistance. We have been fitting Kevlar hoses to our customer's cars for 6 years now and have never had to replace one due to wear. Kevlar is a registered trademark of the Du Pont Company.

What types of payment do you accept? We accept all credit cards (excluding Amex and Diners) and debit cards, details can be given over the telephone, by regular mail, email, our on-line order form, or fax. We will accept a cheque up to your guarantee limit. If you are posting us a cheque (made payable to Quiller Triumph) we reserve the right to with-hold delivery until the cheque has been cleared (if delivery time is important then please ring us to discuss delivery lag as we can in certain circumstances forward the goods ordered before cheque clearance to known customers). We also accept banker's order & building society cheque. If you are sending cash then it is at your risk and we would advise you to do so by registered mail.

I want to pay by credit card, but need the goods delivered to a different address, is that OK? Yes no problem, people often have parts sent to their work address, or their mechanic. We would need the address the card is registered at as well as the delivery address.

How much do you charge to send goods out, and how are they sent? We believe our delivery charges are amongst the cheapest in the business. Please see here

I've just bought / about to buy a Triumph. What would I expect to pay for insurance and who would you recommend? We are not able to tell you what your annual insurance premium is likely to be, as this is effected by a multitude of factors (such as age, previous claims history, engine size, location, average annual mileage etc) but we can say without doubt that a classic Triumph is almost always cheaper to insure with a classic insurance specialist than a more modern car of comparable value. We would recommend Sureterm Insurance

I am in the process of fitting a used engine. What would you suggest I replace at the same time? When we supply a used engine we include a list of recommendations with the engine warranty. See here for a copy you can print out.

You must valet cars all day long. Can you give me any good tips on how the professionals do it? Well there isn't any secret really, just take your time and have the right range of products for the job. See here for a copy of our staff valeting instruction sheet, although some procedures you won't be able to employ without a steam cleaner & pressure washer.

I've just purchased a new hood. Any tips on how to look after it properly? See here for a printable copy of hood care instructions we supply with our new hoods.

I've heard differing advice about which is the best engine for the Stag, what do you recommend? We don't claim to have the definitive advice (if there is such a thing) but here are some thoughts: In terms of desirability/value the original Triumph unit is, as a general rule of thumb, the most sought-after. Unfortunately this engine also has a tendency towards unreliability and fragility due to the nature of its design. Alternative fitments are:

What alloy wheels can I fit to my Herald/Vitesse/Spitfire/GT6. See here for other Triumph wheels that will fit.

What do you think about fibreglass panels? The 2 main advantages of fibreglass panels are 1) they are lighter than the steel equivilents and 2) they are cheaper. The disadvantages are that they tend not to fit so well (or take more skill and fettling to look good). and require a different technique to paint. Our main customers for fibreglass bonnets are racers.

I'm thinking of laying my car up for a while/storing it over winter - any Tips? See here

Why do you not do catalogues? What, no catalogue? We constantly get requests for catalogues for specific cars for a general parts catalogue. The problem is that there is no way to create a catalogue with our entire inventory (especially of used parts), and even if there were, it would never be up to date. Many suppliers print catalogues that go out of date constantly, and offer prices and parts that are not available (and they know it - it gets you to call...)

What needle should I use in my carbs?...I want one a bit richer, any recommendations?....if I change to this needle profile what would the result be? etc. Here is a table you can download